Travel in Morocco: Is it Safe for Women?

18 Feb Travel in Morocco: Is it Safe for Women?

Posted at 18:12h in Destinations, Morocco, Reader's Favorite Posts by Sarah 2 Comments

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February 18, 2020
// Destinations, Morocco, Reader's Favorite Posts

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With a bad reputation for misogyny and sexual harassment, how safe is it for women to travel in Morocco? The answer is pretty safe. If you use the same safety precautions you would in any city, the main crimes you need to watch out for are pickpockets and scams.

However, women traveling in Morocco need to be more aware and keep their guard up.

The unwanted attention from men can get exhausting and overwhelming. There were several times when I felt the leering was too much, and I wanted to haul over and punch some dude in the nose.

Obviously, this is definitely not what you should do. You don’t want to get involved in anything like that (in any country, I might add) and Morocco has its own laws that might not always be in women’s favor.

I’ve read from other female travelers that they’ve heard everything from “you’re a wh@re!” to “suck my d!ck” while walking Morocco’s streets. While I think walking around with Drew saved me from hearing things like that, I did have my own pretty scary experience.

Travel in Morocco: My Experience
with Harassment & Molestation

Drew and I rented a car in Casablanca and drove around the Northern part of Morocco. When we got to the city of Meknes it was early evening but the Medina was packed. Almost as soon as we arrived, a man — I’ll call him “Berber” because he was very proud of being from there — approached us, asked where we were from, and started walking with us.

We said we just wanted to walk around alone but (thanks, but no thanks) but he kept up.

Eventually we wound up letting him take us to the best carpet place in Meknes. “Just let him show us this one place and he’ll be out of our hair,” I remember thinking.

While Drew and I chatted with the shop owner and looked through his carpets, Berber made us some delicious Moroccan mint tea. We wound up finding a carpet that we actually did love and settled on a price (80% less than the original asking price). However, since they only accepted cash, we needed to find an ATM. Drew asked if I wanted to go with him, but I said I was comfortable staying behind and getting some photos and videos of the store.

Moments after Drew left, Berber pounced on me. He forcefully grabbed me by the arm, linking his arm with mine, and told me I was “gentle like his sister.” At first, I thought his statement might be lost in translation but now I think he knew exactly how that could come across.

Berber said that he wanted to walk me to his favorite cafe. I declined and said Drew would be right back and, if I wasn’t at the shop he’d be worried. Berber insisted and said it was just around the corner.

Against my better judgment (if something feels wrong, it probably is), I left with him. The cafe was steps away, and as is usually the case in the Muslim world, it was filled with only men. When I walked in, everyone fell silent. It was like that scene in Animal House where the guys walk into the bar and the music stops.

Still holding onto my arm, he took me to the cafe’s counter, then he turned around and we walked out. I’m not sure what the cafe thing was all about, but I’m sure he told his friends that he slept with me or something.

As we walked back, Berber started asking very private questions and getting aggressive.

He asked me if my husband was the only person I’d slept with and if we took others into our “marital bed.” He asked why we didn’t have children. Was it because Drew couldn’t satisfy me sexually? I was also told many times how soft and gentle I was, just like his sister.

Berber was pulling me through the narrow streets back to the carpet shop when, in a flash, he grabbed my hand and shoved my fingers into his mouth, slowly licking and sucking each finger. I tried to grab my hand away but he just held on tighter.

He took my fingers out of his mouth, held onto my hand and pushed it to his crotch. This time I was able to move my arm enough to get it away from his penis but he still held on tight.

To say I was caught off guard is a monumental understatement. I was paralyzed with shock, disbelief, and fear. I didn’t know what I could or should do.

If I was back home in the United States, I would have gotten my hand away and yelled at him about what an a$shole he was. But I didn’t know how that would go over in Morocco where the record on women’s rights is less than stellar.

When we got back to the shop, no one else was there. I tried to keep my distance from him but he kept following me. Finally, I sat down on a stack of carpets (the only stack around) but he hauled over carpets to sit beside me.

I was wearing baggy pants with a long-sleeved shirt tucked in and a denim jacket. (Wearing conservative clothing won’t stop harassment in Morocco, but it can limit it.)

Berber reached under the back of my jacket, lifted up my shirt, and rubbed my bare back. I tried to get up but he pulled me back down.

The whole time I kept thinking that I didn’t need to panic because Drew would be right back and we’d get our carpet and leave. I’m extremely lucky because that’s all that happened and Drew did come back and we left.

At first, I didn’t want to tell my husband what happened because:

1) I was ashamed (I felt weak and taken advantage of), and

2) It was was my thing to deal with and I didn’t want Drew to add to it by doing something that would get him/us into trouble.

Once we got back to our car I broke down sobbing while bathing myself in hand sanitizer.

Understand that I’ve been to 48 countries and traveled to many off-the-beaten-path, poor, and Islamic destinations. I’m not a first-time traveler with romanticized ideas of the world. Drew and I are always cautious and we know how to protect ourselves and avoid scams.

Travel in Morocco can get exhausting. It’s tiring to be constantly vigilant and it feels sad to be skeptical about everything and everyone. I’m sure many of the people who asked us questions as we walked around were genuinely curious, but it felt like everything was a scam and everyone had bad intentions.

Being on guard made it hard to find a way to engage with the locals, and it took a lot of the fun out of exploring a new country and culture. The best way I can explain it is that it felt like we were forced to be tourists instead of travelers. We hit the famous spots, took pictures, didn’t immerse ourselves, then left.

I know the way the Moroccan men leer at foreign women and touch them is not acceptable in their religion or culture. It’s not something that can simply be chalked up to a different cultural norm. So, I don’t understand why they feel it is acceptable to do it to women outside their faith/nationality/etc.

The following advice is good to keep in mind when traveling to any country, but especially when you travel in Morocco.

I don’t want to discourage anyone from planning travel to Morocco. However, there are ways that people, women specifically, can know the risks and stay safe.

Tips to Stay Safe While You
Travel Throughout Morocco

Dress Conservatively

Although attitudes towards women are changing, Morocco is still a very conservative Muslim country. Basically, the less you wear, the more attention you’ll get. Avoid the wrong kind of attention by keeping your arms and legs covered and keep an eye on your cleavage.

Please understand that what you wear won’t prevent people from harassing you but respecting the Islamic culture with a more conservative style of dress may limit the amount you receive.

It can get incredibly hot in Morocco, so packing full-coverage outfits can be frustrating. Staying cool is not just for your enjoyment, it’s an actual necessity during the summer! Plan on lightweight fabrics, scarfs, and maxi dresses/skirts when you’re packing for your travel in Morocco.

Scarfs are good for multiple reasons: they can add coverage to your arms and also help you blend in with the locals by covering your hair. Also, consider bringing along some sunglasses. This will give you the opportunity to look around without being hassled.

I had hassle from men in the street — telling me they liked my ‘American tits,’ whispering in French in my ear and then calling me a whore when I hurried away. I have to mention that I completely covered up and couldn’t have worn any more layers at this point. I wasn’t sure what I should have been doing: engaging the men resulted in lechery and a struggle to escape, ignoring them made them angry and aggressive.

Neverending Footsteps

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Pay close attention to landmarks like mosques, large restaurants, or fountains. You’ll notice that shops close up at all hours and can make a street look completely different. A good rule of thumb for anywhere you travel is to know where you’re going before you head out. Try not to look lost and walk with a sense of purpose. If you look lost, you’re more likely to be a target.

Go With a Group

This is not to say that women enjoying solo travel can’t have a good time in Morocco, but you will need to have extra thick skin. A solo woman will attract unwarranted attention from men and increase the chances of being followed or groped.

Traveling in a group will definitely help you feel safer from all the unwanted attention.

Hiring a guide is a good way to keep the touts at bay. The two times we hired a guide, we were able to navigate medinas and souks with minimal hassle. You’re also able to see a lot more with them than you are alone. They’ll help you get your bearings and show you more local-focused shops and restaurants. If you want a guide, book one online through Get Your Guide or Tours By Locals.

Understand Morocco’s Culture

Morocco is an Islamic country which means that women are expected to dress and behave very conservatively. Things like clothing choices are obvious, but something you may not anticipate is that it’s frowned upon for women to drink or smoke in public. In many cities, it’s understood that only prostitutes do those things.

It’s fairly uncommon to see women walking around unaccompanied. And you’ll pass by many storefronts and cafes where the only patrons are men. To avoid unwanted attention and advances it’s best that women not visit these cafes. Some are considered “men only” and the women who do go there are looking for a man (again prostitute).

Understand that a smile isn’t just a smile in Morocco:

I will rarely ever flash a smile at a man that is a teenager to about 60 years old. A smile is an invitation to continue (or start) a conversation, which then often leads to other assumptions. I think it’s easier to just avoid altogether.

MarocMama

Watch Out For Scams

(My mistake starts here…) A common occurrence in Morocco is for someone to offer to guide you through the labyrinth of streets throughout the medinas. Do not go with these people!

These people receive a cut or commission from the shop owner, and many times the goal is to hassle you and wear you down until you buy something. Firmly tell them “no” and keep walking or ignore them. It’s okay to be downright rude if they won’t leave you alone. You’re not going to hurt their feelings’ they’ll simply move on to the next tourist they find.

You might hear “no money, don’t worry!” Rest assured, they definitely want money. If they start walking with you or show you anything, they will want to be paid.

While we were walking around Chefchaouen, a man approached us offering to take our pictures. We declined and kept walking but he followed us for blocks, constantly badgering us. When we got on a main street, I stopped, looked at him, and loudly told him to leave us alone. Everyone stared and he finally walked away (and told us to “go fu$k ourselves”).

General Safety Tips

> If you use public transportation during your travel in Morocco, try to sit with other women or families. I wouldn’t ever recommend hitchhiking to anyone (plenty of people do it, I know) but it seems like a particularly bad idea in Morocco.

> If you get hassled or groped, go into a large store and make a scene; there’s safety in numbers and others will come to your aid.

> Morocco is not a place to show off your wealth. Leave your valuables (like your wedding ring) at home. Limit sticky fingers by carrying a cross-body purse that you can put in front of you.

> If you’re a woman traveling alone, don’t go to rural, isolated places without others.

> In general, don’t walk around late at night, especially in the confusing maze-like alleyways of the medinas.

Should You Travel To Morocco?

Drew and I had a good time in Morocco and I love to experience new cultures, taste new foods, and meet new people. Because of the molestation and harassment I experienced in Meknes, the first part of my trip was spent in anxiety and distrust, two emotions that don’t allow for a great travel experience. However, I do believe that you can enjoy traveling around Morocco. As long as you know what you can handle, are prepared, and know what to expect, I believe you will enjoy Morocco.

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Welcome to the musings of a mostly overcaffeinated traveler and dog mom. I’m Sarah. My husband and I live mostly in Las Vegas but also in Montana.

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2 Comments

Mikeann
Posted at 19:16h, 19 February Reply

Oh my gosh! That’s terrible. We went, several years ago, to Tunisia. (Whole family- it was a tour with the cruise we were on) while walking in the souks, we had ‘death grips’ on each of my young nieces. Very creepy, leering men making comments. It was pretty uncomfortable. Also, while I think we had been warned and given some advise on what we may or may not run into, I think we were probably fairly naive…. I mean we’re a fairly cautious group, but still. Glad you’re ok, but that was a really scary experience, I know.
- Sarah
  Posted at 09:46h, 21 February Reply
  
  I’m so glad you’re okay as well! I can’t imagine walking through some of the souks with young girls in the group. Just the things that men shouted out…I wouldn’t want young girls to hear that kind of stuff. I was definitely naive — even though I’d read about other women’s experiences. I thought “It can’t be that bad.” But it was…and maybe even worse.

18 Feb Travel in Morocco: Is it Safe for Women?

Travel in Morocco: Is it Safe for Women?

Travel in Morocco: My Experience
with Harassment & Molestation