05 Mar The Best Hike at the Grand Canyon’s South Rim
We are committed to following CDC guidelines for safe traveling during the COVID-19 pandemic to ensure the safety of our family and others.
This past December, Drew and I hiked the Grand Canyon’s South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch, stayed for two nights, and then hiked out via Bright Angel Trail. Here’s what you need to know if you plan to tick this coveted adventure off your bucket list.
I was 10 years old when I visited the Grand Canyon for the first time. Standing at the edge (well, as close as my mom would let me) I remember thinking, “This is cool – but what’s down there?!” It took 28 years and five more trips to this national park to finally make my way over that canyon edge and descend into the Grand Canyon.
The Grand Canyon is America’s second most visited national park (behind the Great Smokey Mountains in Tennessee), and one of the most famous natural wonders of the world. Hiking to the bottom and walking along the Colorado River makes an appearance on just about every avid hiker’s bucket list – and is one of the most rewarding outdoorsy things you can do in the world.
Always practice “Leave no trace!”
"Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it.”
Table of Contents
South Rim Route Options
From the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, there are two trails that will get you to the Colorado River, Bright Angel Campground, and Phantom Ranch: the Bright Angel Trail and the South Kaibab Trail. Because of the lack of water and steepness of the South Kaibab Trail (it has been described as “a trail in a hurry to get to the river”), park rangers recommend taking South Kaibab down and hiking out via Bright Angel Trail.
The South Kaibab Trail is the only trail in the Grand Canyon that gives hikers a true “ridgeline descent” into the canyon. The trail descends a vertical mile (4,800 feet) along tights switchbacks carved into the canyon’s limestone walls.
If you don’t have a lot of time and want to do a shorter hike, take the South Kaibab Trail to Skeleton Point. This is about 6 miles round trip and offers the best views for the distance!
If you are going to hike the full length of the South Kaibab and want to stay overnight at either the Bright Angel Campground or Phantom Ranch – you will need to have your overnight or backpacking permit or reservations to stay at Phantom Ranch secured in advance.
These are coveted and can be hard to get. So be patient. For Phantom Ranch, you must enter the lottery 15 months in advance of your travel dates and there’s only a small chance you will win the lottery and have the opportunity to book a reservation.
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Where to Stay at the Grand Canyon's South Rim
We made our way from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon – a pretty easy and scenic drive – and checked into our cabin at the Bright Angel Lodge. Situated right on the rim of the Grand Canyon (and the Bright Angel trailhead), this landmark hotel dates back to 1935. I absolutely loved our modern rustic room and all the historic pictures from around the Grand Canyon they used to decorate.
Drew and I watched the sunset over the Grand Canyon and then headed into Tusayan for dinner.
I had the roughest night of sleep between the people next playing music until late at night and just the excited anticipation for what the next day would bring. But when 6 am rolled around, I popped out of bed, threw on my hiking clothes, and was ready to start the day. Nervous energy is a powerful drug!
After breakfast at the El Tovar Dining Room, we encountered a cute family of deer grazing between the restaurant and our cabin at Bright Angel. We gathered up all of our gear and headed off to catch the Hikers’ Express Bus to start our three-day adventure!
Stay
Bright Angel Lodge or El Tovar
Dinner
Plaza Bonita just outside the park in Tusayan, Arizona (15 minutes outside the park).
Pine Country Restaurant in Williams, Arizona (1 hour from the park) where they have more than three dozen flavors of pie daily!
Breakfast
Hikers' Express to the South Kaibab Trailhead
South Kaibab Trail is located near Yaki Point. Because this is an extremely popular area and parking is limited, hikers are not permitted to park at the South Kaibab trailhead.
The park operates a free shuttle service called the Hikers’ Express which departs from the Bright Angel Lodge and runs directly to the South Kaibab Trailhead.
Times vary by season (when we were there in December, they offered two Hikers’ Express shuttles – 8am and 9am), so you’ll want to check in with the Backcountry Information Center when you arrive the afternoon or night before. Also, because of COVID, space on the shuttles is limited to just 15 passengers. Make sure to get to the bus stop early so you can be assured a seat.
If you miss the Hikers’ Express Bus, you can catch a ride on the Village Bus (Blue Line) to Canyon View Information Plaza and transfer to the Orange Line (get off at Yaki Point).
Here’s a handy map that shows the South Kaibab Trailhead and all those shuttle stops.
On the South Kaibab Trail
I’ve got an excitable stomach. Anyone else? That means that when I get really excited or nervous I have to go to the bathroom. Lucky for me (and maybe you), after a quick bus ride from Bright Angel Lodge to the South Kaibab Trailhead, I found a bathroom right at Yaki Point where the Hikers’ Express Shuttle drops you off. This will be your last bathroom for a bit so I’d take advantage of it.
We found another cute little family of deer hanging out by the bathroom here, so I definitely felt the good hiking kismet.
It kind of feels sappy to say, but taking the first steps down into the Grand Canyon and onto the South Kaibab Trail was really emotional for me. It was a lifelong dream finally realized.
The beginning of the trail starts with a series of several tight switchbacks. If you’re hiking in the winter – this is where you’re likely to see snow or ice. If the weather requires, consider having a pair of traction cleats or crampons in your pack. (Jump ahead to see my recommendations on what to expect and pack for each season.)
The Perfect Day Hike
These switchbacks level out and you eventually get to Ooh Aah Point – which is the first panoramic view of the canyon.
I was absolutely amazed at how the canyon looked different around every turn. The South Kaibab trail really lets you see the force that the river has had on the canyon and you begin to understand how incredibly powerful Mother Nature is.
We hiked along the ridge line until we arrived at Cedar Ridge. There are toilets here but no water. From Cedar Ridge, the South Kaibab Trail navigates below O’Neill Butte to Skeleton Point which, at 3 miles, is the maximum distance recommended for day hikers.
Skeleton Point is also your first view of the Colorado River and a perfect opportunity to grab a snack and a selfie.
Skeleton Point
There were quite a few people stopped at Skeleton Point, so it wasn’t as peaceful of a spot as we were hoping for. Drew and I took in the views and snapped a few pictures and headed on away from the crowds.
Did you know that only 1% of the Grand Canyon’s 5 million annual visitors actually step off that ledge and hike – for any length of journey. Once you pass Skeleton Point – where most day hikers turn back – you really feel that shift, that journey into solitude. You’re doing something historical, monumental – but best of all, fun!
Beyond being the best spot to turn around for day hikers, Skeleton Point is also where you begin sensing some dramatic exposure. The trail has been blasted directly out of the canyon’s limestone cliffs and descends quickly and steeply through a series of switchbacks.
Lunch Break at the Tonto Platform
We were excited to pass our first mules around these switchbacks! Flanked by two cowboys the mules were hauling trash, mail, and other things back up from Phantom Ranch.
The mules have the right of way in the Grand Canyon. Move over and give them space. Don’t pet them. They’re working hard! This isn’t just in the Grand Canyon, but hikers going uphill also have the right of way. So move over and let them pass….and you shouldn’t pet them either.
Our next stopping point was the Tonto Platform / the Tipoff. Unlike the veritable crowds at Skeleton Point, we were the only people at the Tonto Platform. We checked our time and, seeing that we were ahead of schedule (we’d made sure to reserve the last dinner serving at Phantom Ranch) took a moment to relax and listen to … nothing.
There’s a nice covered shelter here with benches as well as toilets and an emergency phone.
From the Tonto Platform we followed the trail and it meanders closer and closer to the Colorado River. The hiking poles – and our compression knee sleeves – really started to come in handy around here. At this point, the trail becomes a fine red talcum powder and it covered our shoes so that they were almost unrecognizable.
We dodged some massive mule bio breaks as we made our way to the Black Bridge (built in 1921). When we crossed the Black Bridge over the Colorado River I was full-on excited.
Crossing the Colorado River From Black Bridge
On the other side of the Black Bridge you’ll see a beautiful beach area. During the day, you’ll find hikers sunning themselves and resting strained muscles on its banks. At night, it is a great location to look for shooting stars.
I thought we’d just round the corner and be a Phantom Ranch. But slow your roll; from the Black Bridge you’ve still got about a mile to go. Of course, even though that was the easiest hiking we’d encountered in seven miles, it felt like ages to get to the ranch because I was like “WHERE IS IT?!” Our poor knees were barking.
We passed by Bright Angel Campground (you’ll see a little bridge that crosses over Bright Angel Creek), the mule corral, and a ranger station before we saw the most welcoming of signs – “Phantom Ranch Welcomes You!”
Phantom Ranch
Phantom Ranch is just as much of an oasis as you’d imagine. After being 100% exposed with no trees or bushes for 7 miles, the lush greenery surrounding Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground seems like a downright jungle!
A family of friendly and not-at-all timid deer watched as we made our way to check in.
I was definitely glad that we scheduled the last dinner serving; that gave us time to get showered and change into clothes that weren’t sweaty and dusty. Our meal included a crisp salad, steak, about 100 carrots (leftover from the mules, I think – just kidding – or am I?), freshly-baked cornbread that was 100% approved by this southern girl, and a piece of packaged chocolate cake.
We were disappointed that we didn’t get to enjoy the camaraderie with the other guests at Phantom Ranch. From reading about other hikers’ journeys that always comes up as one of their favorite things about staying there. However, because of COVID-19, the famous family-style dinners were just served up to individuals in bags to eat outside or back in their cabins. And, of course, the dormitories are closed as well.
Along with the dinner change, there were also no nightly led ranger talks around the campfire. So, you know what? We’ll just have to make this once-in-a-lifetime hike happen again!
A Caution On Water
There is no water on the South Kaibab Trail. Nine times out of 10 you will find potable water at Bright Angel Campground, but unforeseen circumstances like pipeline breaks mean that it can’t be guaranteed. It’s always best to be prepared. Bring an alternative form of water treatment, such as iodine tablets or a water filter.
Short on Time?
Consider walking the Rim Trail, a 13-mile trail also located at the South Rim. It’s flat and mostly paved – so it’s relatively easy! The trail starts in the village area and goes along to Hermit Rest. You can fully customize your hike by using the park’s shuttle bus system. Had enough walking for the day? Catch the bus and get back to your car in a snap.
Like I mentioned before, another good option if you’re short on time but want to hike into the canyon is to simply take the South Kaibab Trail to Skeleton Point (6 miles RT).
Seasonal Hiking Tips
The weather can vary drastically depending on where you are in the Grand Canyon. The North Rim’s Bright Angel Ranger Station is the coldest, wettest weather station in the region. However, just eight miles away at Phantom Ranch you’ll find the hottest and one of the driest stations. Always bring clothing that you can layer easily.
Winter
You’ll have short days and long, cold nights.
The top of the South Kaibab Trail is shaded most of the day, so snow and ice accumulates here days or even weeks following a snowstorm. The series of tight switchbacks at the beginning of the trail can be downright treacherous! Plan to bring crampons (over the shoe traction devices) and hiking poles.
Average temperatures at the South Kaibab Trailhead: 19°F to 45°F
Average temperatures at Bright Angel Campground & Phantom Ranch: 38°F to 59°F
Wear: Warm hat, gloves, wool socks, and synthetic or wool-blend layers.
Pack: Waterproof layers, dry clothes, and socks.
Spring & Autumn
You’ll see shorter days and really unpredictable, variable weather. Plan to bring layers that you can shed easily if the temperatures get hot, and can add when they get cold. High winds are common.
Average temperatures at the South Kaibab Trailhead: 32°F to 63°F
Average temperatures at Bright Angel Campground & Phantom Ranch: 56°F to 82°F
Wear: If the weather is hot, follow summer hiking tips below. If it’s cool, follow the winter hiking tips above.
Pack: A windproof layer for windy days, sun hat, water purification tablets, hiking poles. Consider if you’ll need over-the-shoe traction devices (crampons).
Summer
You’ll have hot, mostly dry weather in May and September; extremely hot, dry weather in June; and hot with monsoon thunderstorms in July and August.
Plan to start hiking well before dawn, ideally around 3am, or in the evening. Do not hike between 10am and 4pm! Soak your clothing, hat, bandana in water to stay cool.
Do not force drink water and know the signs of hyponatremia (nausea and vomiting, headache, difficulty walking, confusion, and seizures). Balance your intake of fluids with salty snacks and rest frequently.
Average temperatures at the South Kaibab Trailhead: 48°F to 83°F
Average temperatures at Bright Angel Campground & Phantom Ranch: 74°F to 104°F, though temperatures can feel like 140°F in the sun and reach 115°F in the shade.
Wear: Wear lightly colored, loose-fitting cotton clothing with UPF sun protection.
Pack: Sun hat, water purification tablets, hiking poles.
Checklist Before You Leave
- Leave your itinerary with someone who will notice if you are overdue and report it to 911.
- Check the weather and adjust plans; avoid summer heat. Remember the weather can change suddenly.
- Hydrate, but don’t force fluids.
- Eat a good meal – one full of good, slow burning carbs — and be well rested. Don’t go out drinking the night before if you want to enjoy your hike. If you do not feel well, do not hike.
- Prepare yourself for a faster hike down with high impact on your joints and a slow, strenuous hike out that may take twice as long or longer.
Hiking Etiquette
- When possible, use the toilets provided along the trails. If you have an emergency and can’t make it to a bathroom, pack up that TP – don’t ever leave your toilet paper (or anything else for that matter) behind!
- Mules have the right of way. Make way and move over to let them pass. Hikers going uphill have the right of way. To pass someone in front of you: slow down and let them know you want to pass.
- Don’t lighten your load by storing or abandoning your gear (and definitely never a food cache) along the way.
- Pack out your trash. Leave no trace!
- Be respect other hikers who are looking to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Plus, you’ll never see any wildlife if you’re being a loud asshole.
Frequently Asked Questions
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