04 Sep The Best Bites in the Faroe Islands
The Best Bites in the Faroe Islands
Think back to some of the travel porn you’ve seen on Instagram. Maybe it’s those over-water bungalows in Bora Bora.
For me, I’ve been absolutely lusting after Instagram pictures of the Faroe Islands. I love the moodiness of the low-hung clouds, the untouched lush ground and, of course, the grass-roofed houses. After years of dreaming over other travelers’ adventures throughout the Islands, I finally got to experience this otherworldly archipelago myself!
Our flight took us from our home in Las Vegas, to a quick layover in Paris, then to Copenhagen. We spent a couple of days exploring Copenhagen before taking the quick flight out to the Faroes.
A little commuter plane was waiting for us as we began our journey to the Faroe Islands from the Copenhagen Airport. After a quick 2-hour flight, we landed at Vágar Airport, the only airport on the Faroe Islands.
From there it is about 45 minutes to Tórshavn, the islands most populous city with around 13,000 residents. Vágar Airport serves around 15 flights a day from cities such as Copenhagen, Barcelona, Lisbon, Edinburg, and Reykjavik.
Travel around the islands has become much easier since two sub-sea tunnels were built. Before this, travel required helicopters and ferries to shuttle travelers and locals to other islands. A toll, payable at gas stations, of 100 DKK (about $15 USD) is charged to drive the tunnel between Streymoy and Vágar and between Eysturoy and Borðoy; the other tunnels are free. Because of these road improvement projects, more than 85% of the Faroese population is accessible by car.
Dining in
Tórshavn
We rented a car at Vágar Airport and got into Tórshavn around 8 pm. In the summer months, it stays light in the Faroe Islands for 19-20 hours a day, so it was still very light outside when we arrived.
Before we headed to our Airbnb, we searched for a place to have a bite to eat not knowing that would be a somewhat difficult task. It seemed like any restaurant focused on local cuisine required reservations. Sure there are your pizza places and your kabob shops, but we wanted something focused on local flavors.
We tried Raest and Aarstova, some of the most popular places in the city. These places are pricey, though not fancy. However, since we didn’t have reservations, we were quickly turned away. We walked around the winding streets while the sun dwindled to a dim light on the horizon and chose the best of the of the rest — this little Irish pub near the water.
After dinner and back at our Airbnb, we planned out the next day’s hike and made reservations at Barbara Fish House, which turned out to be one of the best bites in the Faroes! It truly was fantastic.
Barbara Fish House
Tucked tightly in between the Faroe Islands’ quintessential grass-roofed houses, Barbara Fish House serves Spanish inspired tapas with fresher than fresh Faroese ingredients.
Barbara gives off all the hyggeligt vibes with large windows, warm candlelight, and cozy seating. It is tight in there, so I felt lucky to be seated downstairs and away from all the other diners.
Drew ordered the six-course tasting menu (DKK 590 or $90 USD) which included a variety of locally-caught Faroese seafood such as horse mussels, smoked salmon, and fresh scallops. The highlight was the second to last course where an aromatic Bouillabaisse was poured from a teapot. That’s not to diminish the delicious dessert course which was a sweet and creamy rhubarb sorbet with caramel sauce, fresh earl grey whipped cream, and cookie crumbles.
I ordered the monk fish (DKK 310 or $47 USD) which was perfectly prepared and served whole. It was rich tasting, delicate, and super moist. Another highlight for me was the bread! It’s consistency and taste is like nothing I’ve ever had before — moist and chewy, salty and sour — and served with a garlic aioli so strong I’ll be protected from vampires for years to come. It was wonderful!
If you want to try Faroese seafood, Barbara is the place to go.
Address:
Gongin 4-6, 100 Tórshavn
Streymoy
Around Barbara
Update 2019: We visited Faroe Islands again in 2019 and tried Ræst, a prix fixe restaurant near Barbara that specializes in traditional fermented dishes like cod, lamb, and pilot whale. We absolutely enjoyed our experience there and highly recommend it for more adventurous eaters. You can read a little about our time dining at Ræst here.
Address:
Gongin 8
FO-100 Tórshavn
Dining in
Gjógv
Gjáargarður in Gjógv
One morning while we were staying near the black sand beaches of Tjornuvik, we decided that we would hike Slættaratindur, the Faroe Islands’ tallest mountain. On a clear day from the mountain’s flat peak, you can see all the major islands of the archipelago. While we knew we wouldn’t get a clear day, we thought some of the rain and clouds might dissipate and give us better hiking and views if we waited until later in the day.
To kill time, we headed over to the beautiful village of Gjógv to look around, take in a quick hike, and grab some lunch. With its natural harbor and grass-roofed houses, Gjógv is everything you think of when you imagine the Faroe Islands.
We took Mary’s Walk, which overlooks the harbor, out to its furthest point and, low and behold, we saw 100s of the island’s elusive puffin darting in and out of the grasses growing on the cliff!* Because we took too long spying on puffin, a hike in Gjógv wasn’t in the works, but a great lunch at Gjáargarður certainly was.
We both ordered their lunch platter (DKK 148, or about $22 USD per platter) which looks as good as it tastes. It’s just the right amount of food with samples of cured meats, pickled herring, smoked salmon, a meatball, potato salad, and a (very dry) cookie. It was a wonderful introduction to fresh ingredients that make up Faroese cuisine and just the fuel we need to hike up to Slættaratindur.
Address:
Dalavegur 20
FO-476 Gjógv, Faroe Islands
Note: In November and February, the restaurant is open on request. In December and January, the restaurant is closed.
* Weird aside since I just talked about how cute the puffin are — we did try puffin. And by try puffin, I mean we ate one. And, have mercy, I can’t recommend it. For as cute as these little critters are, they taste like tough fish wrapped in seaweed. Ick!
Check out this super cute 3-bedroom home for rent in Gjógv — Complete with a traditional grass roof!
Dining in
Klaksvik
Fiskurin (Fish and Chips) in Klaksvik
Located in the parking lot of the Føroya Keypsamtøka (FK) supermarket in Klaksvik (island of Bordoy) is a delicious fish and chips takeaway restaurant, and definitely one of the best meals we had while in the Faroes (DKK 260 or $40 USD for two fish and chip meals and a local beer). If you’re planning on taking the ferry to Kalsoy for the Kallur Lighthouse this restaurant is the perfect spot.
There are two breweries in the Faroe Islands (Føroyar Bjór and Okkara). I washed down my wonderfully satisfying meal with a beer from Föroya Bjór (“Gull” – translates to Gold – was recommended by the nice woman who took our order) and the combination was just the thing to warm me up after a day of hiking in the Faroe Islands’ driving winds and rain.
Address:
15 Nólsoyar Pálsgøta
Klaksvík 700, Faroe Islands
Faroe Islands
Helpful Area Info
Quick Facks
- The Faroe Islands are made up of 18 rocky, volcanic islands between Iceland and Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean.
- They are a self-governing part of the Kingdom of Denmark. (Similar to the relationship between the U.S. and Puerto Rico.)
- Residents speak Faroese. Most speak English and Danish, as well.
- Newly built road tunnels, causeways, and bridges connect most of the islands. Ferries link the rest.
- The Islands are popular among hikers, outdoorsy types, and birders for its unspoiled, jaw-dropping, raw beauty.
- Steep coastal cliff waterfalls plunge hundreds of feet into the sea.
- The name translates to “Sheep Islands” which is quite appropriate since sheep outnumber people almost two to one.
- A mixture of long-standing Norse traditions and modern European culture makes the Faroe Islands a unique destination. The Faroese are a population with a very strong and proud identity.
What You Can Expect to Pay in the Faroe Islands:
> Lodging: $100 (wallet-friendly) vs $300+ (average) per night.
> Coffee: Around $4
> Dinner: $90 (two people) Wine, Appetizers, and Seafood Main Courses
> Beer: $7
Recommended Lodging Options in the Faroe Islands:
- Mountain and Sea Views in Torshavn — The Atlantic Swan
- Quaint Cottage in Saksun
- One-Story Home in Suduroy — Close to Wonderful Hikes!
- Ocean-front Property With World-Class Views in Bøur
- 3 Bedroom Home in Gjógv With Traditional Grass Roof
- Architect’s Dream with Sea Views — Thor´s Guest House
- Cozy Cottage with Beautiful Sea Views in Søldarfjørður — Fjordcottage
Resources to help your Travels
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission if you book or purchase through these links.
As always, everything on this site is completely free. If you found this post (or anything on YouFoundSarah.com) useful, I’d be grateful if you considered using the affiliate links below. I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. These are the services Drew and I love to use ourselves when we plan our travels. Thanks for your support!
— Sarah
Booking.com – For booking hotel rooms.
Tours by Locals and GetYourGuide.com – For finding high-quality tours around the world.
VRBO – For renting homes across the world.
about sarah
Sarah hails from the land of fried chicken, sweet tea, buttered biscuits, and the friendliest people you’ll ever meet…Alabama! She loves exploring undertouristed locations — places that you wouldn’t automatically think “I’ve always wanted to go there!” Of course, we’ll always have Paris, but what gets Sarah really jazzed is finding those diamond in the rough cities and sharing them with you. Read more…
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